Home Forums ROV ROV Technical Discussions Testing of video and zoom signal

Testing of video and zoom signal

Home Forums ROV ROV Technical Discussions Testing of video and zoom signal

Viewing 3 posts - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #404
    Gina McLauchlan
    Participant

    This is one carried over from the old forum

    Hi,
    I would like to design test pcb for zoom camera and camera signal, we use 33880 pcb for serial peipheral interface. This c-mos is in that if 1 is zoom out and 0 is zoom in, if no signal then there is high impedance so please tell me about this. How would I design a pcb to test these signals?

    #9685
    Gina McLauchlan
    Participant

    This is one carried over from the old forum

    Hi

    Not sure why you’d need to design a test circuit but working offshore the easiest way to test a camera is to power it up and plug it into a monitor. This can be done on a bench if you suspect any other part of the ROV system circuits, fibres or wiring.

    Camera function control signals can be applied to the correct pins on the bulkhead connector.

    If your fault lies inside the camera and you wish to chase logic states or video signals then you’re looking at oscilloscope work and will need a familiarity with the camera or a good set of circuit diagrams. From my experience you probably won’t carry any of the discreet spares anyway.

    I have used a device called a Huntron Tracker which is a great piece of kit for component level fault finding. Doubt you’ll see one of these offshore either.

    If you open up a camera remember it is housed in a pressure vessel so ensure it is reassembled correctly as water ingress could be rather embarrassing!

    Hope this helps.

    😉

    #9686
    Gina McLauchlan
    Participant

    This is one carried over from the old forum

    The 33880 looks like quite a nice chip, SPI, which works well, I may use it in one of my next PCBs 😀 high side and low side in one, goot for H bridges, motor drive, and camera zoom, focus control e.t.c.

    Basically it either sources current, sinks it or blocks it.

    An easy way to test it would be with a couple of LEDs (it can handle up to a 2 amps ! according to the data sheet). Limit the current through the LEDs with a resistor (more for the LEDs sake than the driver 😯 ) and connect one to turn on when the ouptut sources (provides) current and one to turn on when it sinks (receives) current. No LEDs on equates to high impedance.

    Hope this helps.

    Martin

Viewing 3 posts - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

Comments are closed.

Skip to toolbar